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Spain in September: Swimmable Seas and Sparkling Sunshine

Updated: Nov 4, 2023


The Balearic sea has had all summer to warm up so is the perfect temperature for swimming in all day long!


Just the Right Temperature

As the intense heat of European summer begins to wane, gentle breezes and cooler temperatures mean that September is arguably the best time to travel to somewhere like Spain. We stayed in Costa Brava, where average temperatures ranged between 16 C and 25 C in September. This was perfect weather for both sunbathing and exploring, taking away the discomfort that comes along with the midsummer heat. We experienced about three rainy days within the 14 we were there but there was still lots to keep us entertained during those times. As holiday season is over and children are back at school, the area is more peaceful and less crowded. Northern Spain is in general also less touristic than the south which makes for a more authentic getaway location. Costa Brava is an area where Spanish people go for their own holiday and is very close to Girona airport, just a forty minute drive away.

Costa Brava, meaning 'Rugged Coast' is a gorgeous region of Catalonia, in northeastern Spain, filled with secret beach bays and sweeping hills which create the most dramatic landscape. It is best known for its historic villages, hidden coves and the work of renowned artist Salvador Dalí who was born and drew inspiration from this part of Spain.

Despite its rugged coastline, there are lots of beaches to visit.


Endless Beach Days

We spent fourteen days here, in the Sumus Hotel Stella & Spa which was located in Pineda de Mar, a five minute walk away from the beach. We fell in love with the region, its natural beauty, its charismatic wildlife and its generous and friendly people. We spent most of our days on the beach. The sea was a sparkling, azure blue and when the waves were gentle, the water became crystal clear. This meant we could entertain ourselves for hours, swimming around and watching the fish who seemed to be playing along the shoreline, moving back and forth with the waves. There were even two species of jellyfish, the fried egg jellyfish and the compass jellyfish. These are both relatively harmless to humans but we definitely still steered clear from them! We kept ourselves hydrated at a wonderful beach bar, Anchor Point, who provided us with sunbeds, umbrellas and drinks. The staff were super friendly - I highly recommend paying them a visit if you’re nearby.

The beach in Calella, which is about an hour's walk away from Pineda de Mar, is really worth the trek. It's gorgeous and has a diving board in the sea, with lots of bars and restaurants close by. At the Water Sports Centre Calella a range of water activities were offered. Here, we did our favourite - paddleboarding! But you could also windsurf, paraglide and kayak.

"La Sirena" statue by Agustí Guasch Gómez.

A Rainy Day in Barcelona

We spent a day in Barcelona which was not what we expected but a laugh all the same. We took the train up to the city which ended up being about two hours due to unexpected train cancellations. When we finally arrived, we visited La Sagrada Familia which was even more impressive than it is in photos. We then started to walk to a viewpoint high above the city to get a good view but decided to turn back when it started to pour with rain. We sought refuge by taking a tour bus to view the city under shelter but the rain was torrential leading to flooding of the top deck and us having soaking feet! The rain did not stop once we were finished but we trudged for 30 minutes, knowing it wasn't possible to get any more soaked, to Bar Marsella. As we opened the door we were enveloped into a warm, dry haven of 1920s glamour. Bar Marsella, in the past, was frequented by the likes of Picasso, Ernest Hemingway and Costa Brava's own, Salvador Dalí. As we dried ourselves off, we treated ourselves to an absinthe or two which warmed both our bodies and our souls and gave us the much needed courage to venture outside to embark on the long journey back to our hotel (57 km away!). Luckily, the rain has finally subsided and we took a taxi to the nearest underground station. After a few back and forths getting on the wrong trains, we were finally on our way home, still soaking wet and very tired! Three hours later, we made it back to Pineda, taking warm showers and then falling straight to sleep. I guess that's the risk you take going to Spain in September!

Bar Marsella is a must-visit for anyone interested in history, literature or art.

Tossa de Mar

On a sunny day, we took a boat trip along the Costa Bravan coastline, all the way up to Tossa de Mar, a beautiful, medieval fishing village. It was a lot more touristic up here but still very charming and pretty. In fact, Ava Gardner spent four weeks here, filming for Pandora and the Flying Dutchman in 1950. During this time, Ava enchanted the people of Spain, in particular a Spanish actor, Mario Cabré, who starred alongside her in the movie. He fell in love with her and even wrote a book of poetry inspired by her, Dietario poético a Ava Gardner. In 1998, a statue of Ava was built at the top of the viewpoint in Tossa de Mar, and has become one of the most photographed spots in the town.

Stunning scenery from the top of the Tossa de Mar viewpoint.


Costa Brava: The Perfect Balance of Exploring and Relaxing

The whole region of Costa Brava was stunning and I had the most relaxing yet fun two weeks with my family. It was my first visit to Spain and I'll definitely be returning! I highly recommend taking a trip to northern Spain in the weeks of early autumn; you avoid the crowds and get to appreciate the region for what it is truly worth.

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